Securing a load is about more than just pulling a strap tight; it’s about engineering safety for the road. Whether you are hauling industrial machinery or a weekend load, mastering the ratchet strap is a non-negotiable skill.
At Jentan, we provide high-tenacity lashing solutions. In this guide, we will walk you through the anatomy, operation, and professional tips for using ratchet straps effectively.
A professional-grade tie-down system consists of three primary components:
The Long Tail (Webbing): High-strength polyester webbing designed for low stretch and high UV resistance.
The Ratchet Mechanism: A steel tensioning device with a gear, pawl, and spring-loaded release trigger.
The End Fittings (Hooks): Depending on your anchor points, you may use Claw Hooks (Double J), Flat Hooks, or S-Hooks.
Unlike lifting slings, lashing equipment often uses two specific ratings:
MBS (Minimum Breaking Strength): The load at which the strap fails.
LC (Lashing Capacity): The maximum force for which the strap is designed for use in a straight pull. Rule of thumb: Always ensure the combined LC of your straps exceeds the weight of the load.
Before uncoiling, inspect the webbing for cuts, burns, or chemical damage. Check the ratchet for rust or deformed gears. At Jentan, we recommend: "If you see a fray, throw it away."
Place the webbing over the load. Attach the hooks to a secure, structural anchor point on your vehicle (like the chassis or a D-ring). Ensure the hook is fully seated and not "tip-loaded."
Pull the spring-loaded release trigger on the handle and open the ratchet fully (180 degrees) so the rotating center slot (the mandrel) is accessible and horizontal.
Feed the loose end of the strap through the bottom of the mandrel slot and pull the excess webbing through until it is relatively taut against the load. Do not leave too much slack, as the mandrel can only hold a limited amount of webbing before it jams.
Crank the ratchet handle back and forth. The gears will lock the tension into place. Continue until the webbing is tight and the load shows no movement.
Once tight, close the ratchet handle completely into the flat, locked position. This engages the safety lock to prevent the strap from vibrating loose during transit.
Squeeze the spring-loaded release trigger to bypass the locking gears.
Open the handle until it is completely flat (the "release gate" position).
The tension will pop, and you can pull the webbing back out through the mandrel.
Webbing's greatest enemy is a sharp edge. Use plastic or rubber corner protectors. They don't just protect the strap; they also distribute the downward pressure more evenly across your cargo.
If your webbing makes a loud humming or "vibrating" noise at high speeds, put a single half-twist in the long span of the strap. This disrupts the airflow and stops the annoying (and damaging) vibration.
Never leave the loose "tail" of the strap flapping in the wind. It can strike other vehicles or get caught in your own wheels. Roll it up and secure it with a zip tie or a dedicated strap tidy.
Loads often settle or compress after the first few miles of a journey. Always stop after 10-15 miles to re-check the tension of your ratchet straps.
A ratchet strap is only as good as the engineering behind it. Jentan straps are manufactured to exceed international lashing standards, ensuring that when you lock that handle, your cargo stays exactly where it belongs.
